Rangiora
Blue Lagoon in Rangiroa
In Love With Turquoise
Rangiora
The Blue Lagoon in Rangiroa isn’t just a color—it’s a mood. A surreal, stop-you-in-your-tracks, pinch-me-I’m-dreaming kind of turquoise that practically glows as you hop from one palm-fringed islet to the next. Our captain, Martin Graser, masterfully guided the National Geographic Orion - a sleek, ice-class expedition vessel—toward this powder-sand paradise. It was a first in expedition travel since locals in their fishing boats mostly visited this gem of an atoll to harvest coconuts.
Local hut on Blue Lagoon islet
Zodiacs whisked us to a floating snorkeling platform, where blacktip reef sharks circled just inches below. Yes, sharks. Graceful, silent, and oddly calming once you stop hyperventilating into your snorkel. After swimming side-by-side in the Pacific for a few minutes, I found my rhythm... and a new respect for these ocean dancers.
Blacktip Reef Shark
Marine life in French Polynesia
Every day brought underwater wonders—clouds of vibrant fish, technicolor coral reefs, and the hushed, holy beauty of the sea. For those preferring to stay dry, the Orion’s glass-bottom Zodiacs offered a front-row seat to the aquarium beneath us. Just dipping a toe into these impossibly clear, electric-blue waters is enough to spark awe.
Coral Reef
At the coral atoll Toau, the water was so still it mirrored the sky and swaying palms like a secret lagoon in a storybook. I took on the paddleboard challenge—mostly upright, occasionally flailing—while the view stole my breath (and a little of my balance).
Stand-up paddleboarding in Toau
Coconut on a sand beach
Later in the afternoon, lounging next to a coconut in Fakarava's coral sand, I wondered what it would be like to live here full-time. (Spoiler: dreamy, but mind the coconuts.) In French Polynesia, they’re not just food—they’re culture. And sport! Javelin throwing at coconuts hoisted on ten-meter poles is a local spectacle that draws young and old for some seriously spirited competition.
Back aboard the Orion—basically a boutique hotel disguised as a ship—life was pure bliss. Chef Lothar Greiner turned every meal into an event. Think culinary expedition meets fine dining with a side of sea breeze. The staff was practically psychic. Anticipating needs, I didn’t know I had, like my sudden craving for mango sorbet after a saltwater snorkel. The open-bridge policy let us glimpse the voyage from the captain’s chair—perfect for dolphin-spotting, sunset-gazing, or pretending you're in your own Nat Geo documentary.
Warning Sign
Snorkeling in the Grotto on Makatea
Mornings started with a cheerful 7 a.m. call from our expedition leader: “This isn’t a vacation; it’s an expedition!” (Cue groggy grumbles and excited anticipation.) That energy was contagious. Soon, I was hiking with Paul North, an undersea specialist and polar diver, to a secret grotto on the raised coral island of Makatea.
We snorkeled through an otherworldly limestone cave system, his camera lights revealing stalactites and rare underwater stalagmites—nature’s chandelier-lit ballroom beneath the sea.
Tropical jungle of Huahine
Rainbow in French Polynesia
Shades of green mix with shades of blue as we approach Huahine. Locals cross the emerald Mārō’ē bay past lush hillsides in their tiny fishing boat until they reach the bridge connecting Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti. On land, a jungle of ancient fish traps, sacred stone sites (Mareas), and roadside fruit stands welcomed us. A passing tropical shower arced a rainbow across the sky.
Locals in their fishing boat
On Motu Tapu, a private island
The next day, I caught a few rays on Motu Tapu, a picturesque private island that practically begged for a slow-motion montage. My footprints vanished from the talcum-soft sand, but the memory? Forever imprinted.
Bora Bora is as spectacular as the postcards suggest. We explored in 4x4s, passing overwater bungalows and volcanic peaks that rise like emerald cathedrals. The lagoon dazzled in a palette of sapphire, jade, and pure joy.
Over-water bungalows in Bora Bora
Locals welcomed us with warmth, artistry, and color. In a family’s front yard, pareos were hand-dyed and painted by children adding their designs - tiny masterpieces fluttering in the breeze.
We anchored off Motu Mahaea, a private island near Tahaa, where even the air felt infused with vanilla. And finally, one last plunge: Captain Martin’s farewell gift—an open invite to jump off the 4.5-meter-high dining deck into the glimmering sea. Of course, I did it. The Zodiac scooped us up, hearts racing, laughter echoing.
Zodiac ride back to the National Geographic Orion
Tahiti Sunset
In Tahiti, our last stop, the sun slipped behind the mountains, setting the sky ablaze with golds and oranges that melted into the turquoise of my dreams.
Until next time,
